Wednesday, August 20, 2008

The East Inlet

Ive had the opportunity to walk up this trail several times over the last few days, traveling from the eastern point of Grand lake into the national park. The trail leads 7.6 miles up to Spirit lake, passing the lone pine and verna lakes, and even the giant, round base of Mt Craig.
Ive only been as far as the Lower east inlet cg, but the trail is easy and beautiful to here. There are two large meadows along this portion of the trail, each offering a unique view of Mt Craig, at just over 12000 ft, and the pristine east inlet creek. I saw many small trout in the creek the other afternoon,-will have to take a fly rod up there.

Many people have seen a fox on the trail, though I have been three times and have yet to see 'em....

The ant here was one of approx. a bazillion that attacked my hand when I sat on their rock. They were going to tear me apart if they could! Doesn't he just look vicious!? And the log....
This was a very slippery long that I wondered onto just above Adams falls, near the beginning of the trail. I took some boring pics, and then set the Tv to 1/6sec. I tried at this frame for 12 shots or so, and three of them came our without any blurr!!! !


Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Snow, Fires, Colorado...

Shadow mountain lake, just south of us- I went fishing with a fellow staff member and friend, Laura. She took me to a secret spot under the dam on the lake until this SPECTACULAR sunset.

Several days ago began a bout of nasty weather in MY part of Colorado- First was rain and threatening lightning, then came a series of frozen nights which left the tops of the taller mountains white in ice...
THATS RIGHT: SNOW IN AUGUST!
A network card and to routers in our building were blown out by the lightning the same morning a group of guests reported a growing wildfire just up the hill. The storm left us with no Internet- I sure enjoyed it, but it does mean that I have several days worth of photos to post!

above: A mom and babe moose in the park. 'Saw four babies, six adult females and a large group of elk on this short drive through the park. .. The road is closed before it makes any kind of ascent due to the snow and ice. This pair of moose, and a second youngin' stood and played just across a small creek from us-
And a nice wide view of the mountains at dusk.


"FLAT TOP Mountain" all in white- below- as seen from the third floor of the Rempel building at Shadowcliff


MORE FISHIN'! I took a guest out to one of my favorite spots on arapaho creek when the sky began to clear- I caught two and gave him my rod to use (he wasn't havin' any luck on his)
He found no fish, but I hooked a third immediately after he returned the rod. When I handed him the fishing pole( with a fish on the line), he began to reel. Within a few seconds the fish threw the hook and frustrated my partner further. To finish the job, I lent the rod to him again. It started to rain and he became snagged on a far log. He broke the line and began to apologize when, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted the tiny float zip down the creek. It was traveling faster than the current and when I intercepted the line, I discovered a small, hooked brook trout that had picked the fly off of the log on which he had become snagged. Jamie, the Welsh guest, just couldn't catch a fish! above is the entrance road to my spot. Look at all that snow!
Below- a sucker fish of some sort. It was one of three fish that I was able to catch with Laura below shadow mountain lake the other evening. They were hard to bite, but I caught a very nice brown trout- dinner last night.
It was fun to watch all of the trout try their long jump up the flowing damn!


I spent one rainy, SLIPPERY afternoon on the clean, clear creek below Shadowcliff. I had my tripod, but between me shivering, and the swift current vibrating across the flexible legs, most photos were blurred. This one, above, came out well; a 1/13 sec. exposure. And the light at the end of the tunnel- the sky began to clear over grand lake on Sunday. This iron cross sits on 'the point' overlooking the town at shadowcliff. I reduced colour b/c neither full saturation nor blk&w satisfied me. Its alright...

I hope to be able to share more exciting, descriptive memoirs as I take on some of the area's challenging, beautiful scenery, trails and TROUT in the near future!!! SOrry I had to dump these photos in such a manner!

Friday, August 15, 2008

Colorful CO; Shadowcliff


My first few days at shadowcliff went well. As with any introduction, there were awkward and even a few frustrating moments, but it has all been fun and Grand lake is certainly a nice place to work in.
The town is small, only about 450 people, and sits at just below 8,500 feet in elevation. It is best known for being the western portal for Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), and therefore relies greatly on tourism. The lodge, SHADOWCLIFF, actually sits only a few hundred yards from the parks boundry, above the town of grand lake. A short walk will reach you to the town's strip and the lake, or to one of two major trailheads; the tonahutu and North inlet. These trails each follow a valey through several huge meadows before asending more difficult terrain. A longer walk (about a mile) can land you at the East Inlet trail, which is similar to the others.
At shadowcliff, I will share chores over a 35-hour week with a handful of other staff. We will clean, cook, maintain the office and other "special' projects. In return, we are given an allowence as well as room and board. We are free to do whatever- in town, on the lake, in the park- or whatever!
I will be here, amongst the mountains, moose and elk, through the fall, and into the first week of October..!
I arrived Tuesday and became familiar with the place. Tuesday afternoon, I joined a staff member, Jan, on a hike up the tonahutu. Our pace was fast, but after the first climb, I felt pretty good. I hiked about 7 miles r/t- jan went a small bit further.
We found LOTS of mushrooms and flowers- the area has been wet lately. This trip, however, was complimented by PERFECT weather. The sky was spotted with fluffy clouds and the air was a dry 75 degrees. I recognized only two of the many 'shrooms we found along the trail... a few clumps of some coral fungi, and a pair of beautiful, delicious amenitas.
...Did stop to feast on a patch of strawberries that we found about 2.5 miles in!
Lots of different flowers- everything from paintbrush and some pinedrops on the hillsides, to harebells, gilia, gentians, fireweed and something called an elephantella in the meadows and flat areas.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

COLORADO!?! crystals, storms...

Ive been invited to staff at shadowcliff, a lodge/hostel/conference center on the edge of rocky mountain National Park, and agreed to start on the 12th!
The lodge is located above the village of Grand Lake, CO, and is a 12-hour drive from KC (if you go the speed limit)- however, I couldn't let an opportunity pass, and decided to take advantage of the drive by cutting south- to an area I'd not yet seen... Colorado springs..
The drive was extraordinarily wet- it rained non-stop from Topeka through salina. There was a nice spot of sun near colby and rain again after I passed Limon, CO.
Ive read about the area for years.. it's famous gold mines, high peaks, rock garden and world-class ROCKHOUNDING! I mapped out a rough itinerary and hit the road on Saturday morning.
.....A few tanks of gas later, around 3:30, I reached my first destination; Lake George, co. Lake George is a small town about 40 miles west of Colorado springs, and is really not important except as a landmark. My area, Spruce grove, lies about 16 miles nnw of town. Spruce grove is a national forest campground- known for it's great topaz field. I knew nothing of the campground, except that it had a creek and a topaz-crystal hunting area.
Immediately after I arrived and claimed my camp site (wasn't easy- the area was packed), I ran into STEVE. Steve is the campground host and is probably the most friendly person Ive ever met! he told me all about the area- the fishing and hiking along tarryall creek, panning for gold, and of course, the topaz.

"Go over the walkin' bridge and hang an immediate left. Follow that path along the crick 'til you pass the chain-link fence behind the private property you see over there... take a right after you pass the fence and follow it past two pine trees layin' across the trail, over a hill, trough an aspen grove for 'bout 3/4 mile. When ya' get to he meadow, look to the far end. If you look real' carefully, you'l see a fallen pine. A great big'on.. Just behind that dead pine you'll find yerself a pair of livin' pines with real faint white markin's... REAL faint white paint on the trees... ya gotta look real' carefully or else you'l miss it.
... you gotta cross the meadow- just below those three peaks (he pointed)... and go through those two pines with the REAL faint white markin's..... From there its only 'bout 200 yrds, but its REAL steep... you'll see all sort of holes where people ben' diggin... not too many folks know about it..."
SO, I did just that. .. and even found the Topaz claim! ... and got stuck in a lightning storm. I crawled under an elephant- sized boulder to dig out of the rain., The dirt was a light brown/orange, with lots of granite, and a few good hunks of milky quartz. I dug and dug- 'imagined what would happen if I took a handful too-much dirt and the boulder gave... or by how much the crow-bar beside me would increase my chance of getting struck by the continuous, loud lightning..
Right about the time the rain stopped, my day-dreams were interrupted by a crystal-shaped something that emerged from the pile of dirt I removed from the boulder that was to squish me.
I cleaned the something off and discovered a very clear point.. It was about the size of a nickle.

The point is shaped like many quartz points I have found- fattened, but with many facets, though it lacks the horizontal 'saw-marks that a quartz would have. I am still not sure WHAT it is - other than dirty and a little beat-up, but it is pretty!
When the threatening clouds became thick again, I retreated to the campsite- over the mine, down the 'real-steep' hill, through the 'real-faint' white trees, across the meadow, over the hill and through the woods,....
.....I met Steve at the bottom. He shared stories of crystals he and others had found on the hill.. including a huge, double-terminated blue topaz that sold for $40000. He went on about the weather- about how unusual it was to get clouds that late in the day- and asked if I had tried my luck with a gold pan yet. His curiosity prompted me to pick up my pan and jump in the creek. I was already very wet from the rain- the creek was cold, but didn't seem too wet...
It was becoming dark, fast and I drained the heaviest contents of about a dozen pans of material from the stream bed into a plastic bag.
Tarryall creek is a cool mountain stream that flows from the below the reservior- below the campground it flows fast and enters several hundred yards of granite shut-ins.

I woke the following morning, Sunday morning, to an unexpectedly COLD tent. I could see my breathe, and though I was able to take pleasure in the august experience, I had to get out of my sleeping bag sometime.! The sky had only just begun to display that mystical pre-dawn blue when I was adding layers upon layers of clothing to my t-shirt/jeans. I walked up and down the surrounding countryside until the summit of the steep granite hill near the camp was lit by the overwhelming sunlight. I was the only conscious thing for several hours, and the valley that held our camp was almost too quiet. There was an occasional bird or bark, but no wind, no generators, tvs or radios, and none of the screaming children or drunken exclamations that I had fallen asleep to.
I took a peek at the bag I had filled with heavy sands and stones from the night before and noticed an exciting grapefruit color- I opened the bag and sorted the contents in the warm water left-over from my oatmeal breakfast. There they were !!! I had discovered garnets!!! !!! I spent the hour that it took he sunlight to reach my truck sorting out all of the larger garnets... though they were all small. Still, the hundreds of tiny, red, glass-like crystals put a buzz of excitement in me that would last for days!
I did not even notice the unusual lack of gold in the sand that had given me those gems, ... though there was a bit of black sand, a fine ore material composed of everything from iron to titanium.. often a sign of a placer deposit, aka.. PAY DIRT

I became eager to pan more in the river for those garnets, but the air around me made the water feel warm, which I knew was not, and the clouds moved in quick. I spent the morning hours digging holes in the topaz mine, enjoying the numerous wildflowers, and watching the many hummingbirds that dinned on them. .. one such bird- about the size of the happymeal superman toy I found buried at the edge of the creek- shot into the air and whistled his way to the ground.. he did it several times, and his aggressive call made me wonder if he wasn't trying to chase me off!
It was not until about 2pm that I dared to go back into the creek. I filled a large prescription vial about half-way with garnets, polished quartz chips and some pretty green rock that I could not identify- before my feet and hands hit that painful-cold point.
On my way back from my mining operation, I ran into a new camper. He was a big guy- middle-aged and not in good shape. He saw my pan and asked about gold and if I had any luck.....he had a huge collection of rocks laid out on his picnic table. . Nothing that looked too special. He told me that they were knappings from an Indian hunting camp he'd discovered in the valley past Wilkerson pass- about 30 miles west of us. He had sent some of the better pieces home with a friend, but he still had some alright ones on the table. He was a local- lived on the road in the national forest, but based his operations out of his parents house in hartsel. He knew our campground like ' the back of his hand'- told me that he'd practically grown up in spruce grove- hunting for topaz with his father and two siblings. He went on to tell me about a local rarity called Amazonite- I knew of the mineral and was very excited to hear of it's whereabouts. I quizzed him down on the crystals until he finally broke down and just gave me directions. "...back to lake george and go through town until you hi a forest service road.. I think it's called 31... go up the road and hang a right on 205. It looks like you shouldn't go up it, but if you continue up that road and look to the sides, you'll see the holes where folk's have been diggin'"
He showed me a colorful boulder in the back of his truck... piled on one side with yellow, clear, black and green crystals. The green/blue, which is somewhere between a turquoise and a lime, was amazonite- pronounced like the river.
He talked about a large champagne -colored topaz that a friend of his mother had found on the area and sold for $400, 000....
This mysterious crystal just keeps getting bigger and better!
He told me about some other places to hunt for other minerals, but I was too excited about the turquoise-colored crystals to pay much regard to what he was saying.
I was one of only three groups camping Sunday night. One party, a large man, camped across the path from me while the other was of many young people and was far down the road... though you could still hear them .. very, very well.... I would have referred to them as my piers- as most of you would have due to our common age- but I don't think I could be as noisy as this bunch was, nor as trashy or rude.. well, maybe the rude part...
They occupied the entire parking lot with SUVs, a dune-buggy, and a, international ( scout-type thing ) convertible that was literally held together with cut aluminum cans and duct tape.
The clouds began clearing up for sunset and I hiked to the peak of the nearest granite hill for some photos. I did not bother securing my gear as I had for the cloudy night before.
Sometime after midnight we had a freak thunderstorm I woke up to a series of deafening claps of thunder and almost continuous lightning flashes that cast some pretty eerie silhouettes on my tent. Then the wind came- The left wall of my puny tent lay flat, cold and wet on my exposed face- I felt one of the anchoring spikes become loose and then I listened to the campsite fall apart. The lightning and thunder continued and the rain became heavier- until it was pouring! I heard a crash, some scrapping.. The first thought that went through my head was that a bear had raided my dirty mess kit in the bed of my truck- only a few yards away. The thought was a bit frightening, but was not completely random- a similar storm/bear/dirty mess kit incident had fallen upon me only a few years ago near Yosemite. I heard the steel pots and pans crash on the ground in between the roaring thunder and the sound of my measly shelter whipping in the harsh winds. the inside of my tent became wetter and wetter until my sleeping bag could not protect me from the cold air. - the water entered from a small vent that is sealed when the tent is staked to the ground, and from the ground on which I laid, which had become not a puddle, but a stream of water emptying into the campsite next to me.
The storm continued without showing any sign of weakening, but I was hardly conscious when I started hearing screaming from the young group down the road. I had only just dismissed the thought of a ferocious bear raiding my truck, so you can imagine where my imagination went when I heard the yells. The yelling and screaming, however, did not frighten me as much as they probably should have.. I did not believe that any bear would attack people when there were messy campsites to clean up. Somehow I was able to work out a theory of why the sounds I was catching glimpses of were not reason for fear...
The storm was relaxing and exhilarating at the same time and I found a rare peace in it that I was barely familiar with. Before it began to die down, a long while after it had all began, we had one more bout of nasty- scary- weather. The winds tore at my tent and he trio of pines that I was under. Thunder did not hesitate after lightning, but was heard as the light was seen and seemed not to wait either, for the previous bolt. I feared liftoff for a few moments and heard what I could only assume to be my heavy cooler being blown off the bed of the truck.

Again, I awoke some time before the sun. The first thing I noticed this Monday morning was that it was not nearly as cold as the previous morning. I could only barely see my breathe and a light jacket was all that was necessary. Despite the fact that I was very wet, I thought I could feel all twenty digits! When it became light enough to see, I made my way into the war zone that used to be my camp. The cooler was in two pieces and laid several feet from the truck. One fourth of the mess kit could have been found trapped under the wheel of my vehicle, while the other components were scattered (some hundreds of feet) some distance from it. .. with no bear marks or anything!!
The tarp that was tucked under my tent to keep the bottom dry only kept a pool of rain water and the entire area had even washed of much of its topsoil. The three pines that helped deter some part of the storm from ravaging my village were OKAY \, though despite clear, blue skies, they continued to drip on my pitiful tent. It could have been worse. I heated up some food and by the time the sun hit my wet camp I had everything drained and harnessed down to the cement picnic table in the center of the pad so that it would dry faster. I had no plans for Monday night, but I knew I would leave Spruce Grove. I enjoyed it, but there was SOO much to see!
I jumped into the creek again and found no gold, no lead, but some larger hunks of iron ore and a small handful of garnets. I sorted the stones at my table and tossed the smaller ones and other things. Steve joined me- he seemed as interested in the crystals as I was.. though I dont know if thats even possible. He told me that the storm we had experienced was very unusual... not only in intensity and duration, but most of all, in the time of night that it exploded.
It was not until about noon that my things were dry enough to pack up. I drove back down road77 and through lake george. I found no 'NFS 31rd", but passed a NFS road in it's supposed place. NFS94, i found, turns into 31 when it crosses county line several miles up. I crossed roads 200 and 201- and I drove until the road turned into a 4wd only, and I had to turn around. I drove for an hour or so, and maybe 30 miles on the rough dirt roads that branched from road94/31. .. never found what the man was talking about.
Discouraged, I drove back into Lake George and found a ranger station. They had a small gravel parking lot with a large area map on the far side. I parked next to the only vehicle on the lot- a white SUV with New Mexico plates. I got out of he car and approached the map and the two men examining it. They greeted me and immediately asked if I knew where they could find the amazonite deposits that they were told were up road 94. (pronounced am Ah zoo nite)
I shared my story with them and we drove back up 94 together- the map said that 205 was the first right off of rd94 and my new partners said that they were told to go up he first right.
We did just that- I followed them up 94- about 1.5 miles up, we hung a right- and traveled forever! I turned around after we exited the National forest- Decided to go find someone who might have a clue about the mythical crystals!
When I reached Wilkerson pass, about 25 miles west of Lake George, I ran into a National forest visitor centre that seemed to be occupied. I entered the little shop and found a couple of rangers. I questioned the two older women, who had heard of the mineral, but that was about it. They gave me a few brochures and even went through their small library for me. Still, the only thing that they could tel me was that it existed in the surrounding national forest and was sought heavily by others like myself. I asked to look at their maps of the area north of lake george-
They showed me three. On the first map, the road was called 31, and 205 was non-existent.
The second map showed a road 205- on 94, not a mile from the main hwy. The third showed road 94, but again, no 205.
I examined the second map- the road that might exist- and decided that I would regret not going back to check it out.
I thanked them, and they asked me to bring them back a crystal of it.- I think that they were joking.
I turned onto road94, and passed the ranger station that was only a quarter-mile from the hwy. I continued for a short ways- watching the right side of my road for any possible invisible roads. It was only about another half-mile when I passed the white SUV on the side of the road
that I had met earlier. they were pulled just off the dirt road onto a 6-foot drive way. I turned around and pulled onto the side of the road next to them.
The father-son rockhounding team told me that they had spoke to the man who discovered the deposit; he owned a rock shop or somethin' in the area and gave them directions to this spot. They invited me to join them.. "he said to park here and climb up this hill until we see holes dug into the ground, " the older man told me. Again, I followed them , this time by foot. Road 205 was an old dirt road that had been blocked off for many years and converted to a hiking trail. We did not follow the trail, but cut strait up the rugged hillside to our right. It may have been only a few hundred yards before we found the first set of holes.- we followed the holes until the younger man found a small green chip. It was amazonite!
We split up on the top of the hill- I went through the "tailings" piles of holes that had already been dug- and I had alot of luck!... well, I thought so...
I found small pieces- up to dime-size- of some of the darkest, most colorful amazonite Ive ever seen! One VERY colourful piece was even translucent!
I also found a larger, clean quartz point that was actually two at the base that tapered off to one point. Another exciting find was a small dark piece of amethyst and a huge hunk of smokey quartz- though this one was low quality.
I met up with the New Mexico pair on the top of the hill- son was digging, father was examining some of the larger, exposed boulders. I showed them my collection and offered them each a nice crystal. Son told me that they were only interested in finding the rocks themselves, and gave me a few chips he'd gathered.
I bid them GOOD LUCK, and descended the hill.

They followed at a slower pace and met me at the road as I was packing my treasures away carefully. And though I was very excited about my finds, even this could not beat the garnets.
I stopped at the Wilkerson pass Visitor centre with two crystals- I left the rocks and some *general* directions for the determined hunter. From there, I drove north. 'Had to call my parents from the area and town of South Park -surrounded by all those incredible peaks- they dispise the show. At sunset I pulled into a familiar campground near grandby- a few miles south of GRAND LAKE and about 160 miles from Wilkerson Pass. I would be at Shadowcliff the following morning, though it HURT to leave the Lake george area. No matter how long I stayed there, I dont thing I will ever be completely satisfied with the trip- there is just too much to do and find in the national forest.

Stopped in Gradby to pick up a fishing licence.
It was an incredible sunset and nice, quiet monday night. I packed my stuff tight in the truck and kept food in the truck. 'Slept well.

I woke early, again- well before the sunlight had a chance to warm the area- and wondered down to the river. I fished- threw a little olive wolly bugger in- but never saw anything. A pair of otters played infront of me. Their curiosity brought them close- they dove, never to be seen again, when they got about 15 feet from me.
They are in the photo below- my flash went off, but it was still pretty dark. Look in the center of the reflection of the boulder.
On my way back I climbed a rocky slope on which I discovered a colony/ pack/ school/ herd/ fleet/ army of Marmots. Marmots are a mid-sized squirrel/groundhog thing found all over the high rockies. They bark.
When I returned to my truck- just as the sunlight reached it- I found a granola wrapper at the base of a tree. Another on the hood of my truck. When I peired into the vehicle, I found several more shredded amongst all sorts of crumbs. I'd been robbed through the crack (which was just about one inch) in the passenger side window.
A evil laugh of a tiny squirrel rang from the limbs above me. The criminal was a small, grey, fluffy, pointy-eared demon... I'll get 'em back!

I stopped to photograph the marmots on my way to shadowcliff- after I cleaned up the granola wrappers...

Monday, August 4, 2008

gone a' fishin'

My father and i were licky enough to spend a weekend down on truman reservior. I fished from the docks on the state park's marina; my father fooled around on his boat. The fishing is some of the best Ive had at the lake!

Caught and released dozens of crappie, panfish, bass and catfish! I used mostly a minnow in 10-15ft of water, 5-8ft down. On saturday, for only the few hours I fished, I kept three crappie tht measured 12-14inches (excellent fish!), and a channel catfish about 15"..
The water was incredibly smooth... no wind at all!, though there was a bit of boat traffic. It was waaay to hot... the bank thermometer in the near town of tightwad, Mo, read 101 degrees... at 1pm .

The lake is still a bit high, but nothing compared to what it was! A jugline that I had left tied at the waterline a few weeks ago was hanging from about 20ft in the air! Those giant, fleshy, gooey, slimy, nasty carp? eggmasses are dried onto the brush as far as a few hundred feet on shore, where they were laid during the flood.

Heres the report:

LAKE LEVEL: 710.50
WATER TEMP: 83 deg.
WATER CLARITY: Clear to light stain.

Bass: Excellent!... I caught a lot of smallr fish, to 16", on small, silver or white jerk baits in or above the flooded brush. The two larger fish I landed were suspended among the trees, caught on a red/white medium spinner bait in about 20 feet of water.

Crappie: Very Good!.... Minnows; off bluffs and in coves in water 10-30feet at 8 feet deep. Saw a few good creels come in from the trees, and I caught a handful on a small blue/white jig. My six large fish came from about 10 feet deep in only 15 feet of water, on minnows. They bit best in the late afternoon.

Cats: Just Okay... The report is jug lines, 8-20 feet of water, cut shad or live panfish at 3-6 feet off the bottom- the closer to deep water, the better! I saw a pair of ~8lb'ers come from the trees near the dam. I caught a small handful of them while fishing for crappie on live minnow.

Well, the sun was good, the water was good... nice, relaxed trip!

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Rockhounding Arkansas!!!

All those beautiful crystals and fossils in south dakota put an ich in my bones to go collect; and Arkansas is the perfecct place to do such a thing!
I drove south on tuesday- my first stop was the town of Galena, Mo- south of springfield- where I had read of mound of gravel and mine trailings from which metallic Galena crystals could be collected. The directions on the webpage I'd found said that one such pile was accesable two blocks west of the county courthouse in Galena.-- It wasnt there.
I found a park, instead, and walked across an old historic bridge over the ozarks James river.
It was just a slight milky color, but way clear! On the bank of the river was a giant gravel bar and a small outcrop of exposed rock. It was a dark blue/grey-like the stuff you find in swope park. I found a small group of quartz crystals and a little prism of calsite.
When it was time to get back on 71hwy, I found myself on hwy 60- about 14 miles east of the town of seneca, Mo. It was in this location that I began to notice something very wrong with the landscape; mangled and bare trees everywhere- most of them flat on the ground and a few with such things as crumpled sheet metal or torn fences entangled in their remaining branches. For about 1 mile- just before I hit hwy 59- was the worst of it. There were barns and houses and sheds and even a truck spread all over the naked fields. the ground was littered with heavy debris and several fallen oaks looked more like balls of foil than trees. It was like the aftermath of a bomb and the only sign of life was a single stone foundation busy with constrution workers. The handful of people were re-building the house and had completed only a wooden skeleton. It was the aftermath of one of the dozens of tornados that ripped through the area in early may.

From the time I drove through the warzone until I hit the arkansas city of Ft Smith I was able to see the results of another natural disaster. Every tree in this part of the world is sick-looking. Leaves grow only very close to the main trunk and do not grow on the outer branches or limbs. Every tree is growing a whole new set of leaves directly from the trunk from the ground to about 3/4 up. I assume it is from the nasty ice storms they suffered or a late freeze?
I started to get excited when I hit the town of Mt. Ida- In the heart of the Ouchita mountains., west central arkansas. From there it is only a couple of miles south to owley road and a few minutes from the NFS Crystal Vista site- an abandon quartz mine made public property by the forest service. It is legal to collect small amounts of rock and crystal from the site.
I packed a small back-pack with a camera, a knife and lots of baggies and vials. Its a steep one-mile trek up the mountain from the parking area. The trail edges up through tall pines and open understory. The pines were unusually still this tuesday- When the pines arent' whispering, the only sounds up there are you and an occasional far-off airplane.

I walked around the shallow, red quarry. It started to get hot. I basked in the sun until the fence lizards felt that it was cool enough to join me, when I moved to my favorite part of the mine. On the far, west corner is a steep wall of red sandstone. You can see the white and pink veins of quartz that decorate it. On the very top of the wall is a small terrace. It is hard to get to, but Ive been digging at it since the first time we visited the mountain. The air smells of heated pine- it reminded me of similar habitats in colorado and california.

I started goin at my hole- and found very little. I worked at it, removing each rock and crystal like a puzzel piece so not to hurt any valuable ones. Still, I found very little and gave up when the sun ducked over the far side of the mine. I moved to the left- only a few feet. After clearing a small spot of any sharp rocks, I laid in the red dirt and began the proces all over again- It was no time before I got myself into a new vein! I dug and dug and before I knew it, I was digging in the dark! I wrapped each crystal and placed them in my pack. I had no flashlight, but I knew the mine and trail well-enough.
I racked my feet on a few good rose vines and rocks on my decent, but got down in good time. I set my tent up next to the truck- dont know if its legal, but I had seen or heard no one in the time I had spent there. It took me a second to get to sleep- A pair of VERY LOUD owls were perched directly above me- It was pretty cool to loisten to them go on, though they never got into any of those screaming matches that a barred owl would. I listened to some critter go through my stuff, in between the truck and my tent.

I spent the few hours during and after sunrise on the mountain. The sun lit the floor of the area well- too bad its all that nasty lespedisia ! I dug in the new hole I created in the sandstone wall, and by the time I had a chipped knife and two torn-up hands, I had a nice collection of excellent quartz points. I had removed about 3-4 sq. ft. of material from the wall, and about ten pounds of clean, quality crystals. Points as long as two inches, and clusters that filled both hands.(though my favorite was a thin yellow point only about a half-inch long. The yellow is from a coating of iron that grows on the cyrstals here- it can create spectacular rainbows!!! The flawless point was growing alone off of a huge rock I found siting outside the mine in the forest.
I picked up an incredible amount of clothing, broken tools, empty bottles and even an umbrella on the way down.... Indiana Jones, too! The toy I found on the mine has insired me to create a movie of our favorite action-historian dude and something to do with crsytals.... I'll figure it out!

Only an hour south of Crystal Vista is a State Park; Crater of diamonds is the eigth largest diamond mine in the world and is the only place where the public is allowed to mine. The state bought the property in '72 with 800 surrounding acres from a failed private mining company. I'd wanted to visit the park since I first heard about it!!
The policy is finders, keepers- I paid my $6.50 to get onto the plowed surface of the volcanic lamprolite formation. The 37? acre green field hosted about a hundred excited rockhounds- digging holes, sifting dirt, panning out the heavier materials in the parks' many sleuth box or just taking a break from the extreme heat on a shade island. I had a small piece of screen and my pocket knife. I began to walk out onto the field- found a comfy spot in the sun and bagan to search. I was very excited to see, touch (and stash) the lamprolit/kimberlite material that I had read so much about! The material is result of a volcano eruption and frequently holds things like garnets and peridots. My diamond hunt was soon distracted by a handful of crystals and rocks like calcites, quartz, amethyst and jasper. I took a break an hour or so in- explored the visitor center. It reported barite on the field- which soon became my goal- and later, my obsession!
I was going to find that little, blue crystal!
'paced the field, dug a while, and paced somemore. I first found a small, clear, shiny crystal I was sure was a topaz. Topaz was the only thing I knew that looked like that! A handful of colorful jasper and chips of calcite and clear quratz later I retired. The heat had begun to make me dizzy- the index was said to be 114 degrees F... too freakin' hot!!!
I got a campsite for the night. They have only sites with water and electricity, as the majority of park visitors travel in their nasty, comfy RV's. A weevil- came to viait me at the sleuth box. (above) and a sample of four exciting rocks at the park- top,right; kimberlite bottom;jasper left (green) tuff (volcanic ash)
I waded across the Little Missouri river for a few hours- It was cool and clear! the river is so cold because it coes from the bottom of a resevoir a few miles up stream- there is is stocked with trout. The sun began to set and I returned to my campsite. A blackwidow made his home under my bench- the bees swarmed my pop. I watched them for a while- six of them and a yellow-jacket at any given time. I chased them off to take a sip- when I was sure the bees were gone, I put the can to my mouth. BUUUZZZZ! there was a lost bee still in the can. 'didnt want to get stung-withouth thinking, I ripped the can from my face and put it on the far side of the bench- There he was! The stinker emerged from the soda can- wet and mad! He buzzed around me for a few seconds and returned to the can with the rest of'em.
In the morning I woke before dawn. I fished until it started to sprinkle- It was only minutes after it became light enough to tell that it was cloudy that it began to rain. The wether laster for only a few minutes and by 8:30 I was on the field again. I rented a box screen from the visitors center- .2 mile walk from my campsite. On the plowed volcano, I first walked the perimeter. A very colorful deer sat just inside the woods- it was almost red. he glared at me- though he never bothered to stand up. His deer face looked over his back at me- I continued walking.
After I made a full circle around the field, I found a spot and began to dig. The contents of my hole were piled onto the screen and sifted until only stones were left. I put the reduced contents of the screen into a bucket. When the bucket was half-full The sun popped out from behing the grey clouds. I felt it hit my neck and arms- then there was blue spots all over the sky. I had been so focused on the gound that I had not noticed how comfy the air had been. It got hot quick!!!!
I took the full bucket over to a sleuth box that had been left from an old commercial mining operation- still worked, thoughj the mud had not been empty in a while- I screened the contents in the water until there were only small, bright stones and crystals. I spread the stones on the ground and picked out the ones I wanted- After four or five buckets it was 11:30 and blazing hot! I had two handfulls of crystals, some small pieces of bright-blue barite, agates and jaspers. I was very excited to find the first small crystal of barite- there is nothing special about the crystals, which appear similar to calcite,- it was just one that I had not found until my trip to the park!
I took them, and the small bit of material I had kept from the day before to the parks mineral ID center- she told me I had the usual- no diamonds, a few bits of BARITE!, and a small polished stone from the giftshop.>>!?
She referred to the small crystal I thought was a topaz. She passed it around and nobody knew what it was, but several staff told her it was not from their giftshop. I said nothing of topaz, but I still believe it to be one!

My ride home was long- I got to a rec area on the Ouchita river just after one o' clock- Couldnt believe how small it was! the last time I saw it, It was a flooded, raging, muddy current that exposed nothing below the bathroom at the rec center. Now it was a trickling mountain stream- clear as a *crytsal*-- I fished and caught three black bass, a smallmouth bass and a tiny green sunfish that was MAYBE 1.5 times the length of the lure he bit!
There was a sub-metallic shale-lookin rock on the gravel bars- maybe a schist ?

The Arkansas river was WAAY up- The current ate at the giant mounds of sand set on the shore by a dredging company. cool!
I cant wait to get back to my two Arkansas rock spots-maybe when its like ~60 degrees cooler?
Ive noticed a group of six black scabs and lots of inflation on my left elbow- maybe recluse? it hurts and itches,... cool!