Showing posts with label Arkansas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Arkansas. Show all posts

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Arkansas Wavellite!


Through the Ozark mountains and into the Ouchitas- I went on a short crystal hunt south, in Arkansas..
The difference between the two mountain ranges is Awesome; the Ozarks are still pretty bald but only an hour south it seems everything is well into the greening process. There is a lot of sandstone and limestone near ponca, which hosted a boom of lead mining operations in the first years of the 1900's. To the south, Mt. Ida sits on an ancient disappeared salt marsh- the source for many of the Aluminum-Phosphate minerals I searched for on the trip. A quick stop near ponca- I checked up on the ol' lead mines I discovered last trip. Near the highway, a small series of century-old tailings-piles or "dumps" marks where I enter the woods- They kind of look like dunes- Limestone waste piles are white or grey and where they extracted the heaviest ore- in the form of valuable galena crystals- is red from a bit of sandstone that they dug into- both matrices are common in the region. The dumps hold lots of cool stuff- druzy, clear and smokey quartz, calcite, galena and some interesting marine fossils like thick crinoid stems and bivalves.The galena crystals appear as large metallic cubes- some are inches, and all have been dulled and darkened by years weathering and oxidation; beautiful crystals in their matrix are not uncommon in the less-hunted upper terraces of the dumps and mines. In the picture below are two of the pieces I found; both have multiple large and small lead-coloured cubes.

... I swung through Lost valley and visited the river- and the cows- on whatever highway that is.South on 7- and hwy27- I found myself camping near Crystal Vista just outside Mt Ida. It was a cool night... I think the early-morning low may have been just above freezing- It felt crisp only for a second while the sun rose- I packed the big camera bag and had a thing of apple cinnamon oatmeal to get me up the steep trail to crystal vista. Some darker clouds rolled on my ascent of Gardner; Lots of large dogwood blooms added a sense of the Ozarks. Most flowers were past their prime- rotting brown along the edge of each petal-
the flowering trees that I spotted along the highway, just south of 44 to state line yesterday, appeared much more fresh and vibrant. I dont think that Kansas City's dogwoods are blooming yet.
At the top of the mountain- amongst the walls and terraces of the old crystal mine- the clouds were (almost) threatening; They looked bad, but seemed to be doing nothing but passing by. I walked the perimeter of the eroded pit, and dug a few shallow holes to expose a handful of points a a small cluster with a cool magnesium inclusion; spent some minutes examining a crevasse in a far high wall and the morning was over pretty quick. I drove a bit down the road and made a right turn onto a worn gravel road. It led me all the way to my wavellite hole in the County Quarry. - I scouted some nearby rock with a knife and a crowbar to find a wonderful patch of bright green variscite and a few tiny, fiberous cones of burnt-orange cacoxenite or wavellite..
The famed Mauldin Mountain locality is currently closed to collecting, but several local miners and business owners have recommended parking down the street and walking in; apparently nobody really minds! I made my presence obvious to several machine operators in the quarry and only got a few friendly waves.
My original hole yielded some brilliant green wavellite crystals- they grow as the small partial-spheres or botryoidal masses and some are very lustrous and colourful. The darkest of the crystals are my favorite- like a deep emerald-green. Some darker clouds continued to sweep the sky and cast shadows on the Ouchita's- the day grew warm and pleasant. A late-afternoon meal at 'Ida's gas station and a pit-stop near the flooded river and I was off on 27. The fields around I-40 were smothered in yellow and wine-coloured clovers grew in patches along my route throughout the state. The warm air followed me home and it was surprisingly comfortable every time I got out of the car!

Monday, March 30, 2009

Ghost Town, Ark


"The Ghost town of Rush stands as a mute testimony to the activity of a bygone era.
Zinc carbonate ores were discovered in (the) valley in the late 1890's and the "rush" was on. Soon the hillsides were dotted with mines- sprouting colourful names such as Morning Star, White Eagle, Monte Cristo, Red Cloud, Buelah, Macintosh, Edith and Yellow Rose."

The town is fascinating- but for only a quick moment. A short row of four or five buildings awaits the visitor in the remote Ozark valley of rush. Only a few miles from Hwy 14- this side trip is well worth the left turn from Caney. The Buffalo is in early spring now- Redbuds and anemone's make for a pleasant break from Kansas City's latest bout of winter. The river, in Rush valley, is much larger than the Buffalo I know in Ponca. Still, it is beautiful and clean-looking. A slight green, milky colour today- some good rains lately. The river was the first thing I visited on my trip to Rush. I came to see the mines and did not know that the river was here!
I arrived far too late to brave the unfamiliar trails above the river a spent a sunny, pleasant afternoon by the river. Everything seems pretty soaked and soggy, but a tarp was enough to keep my tent dry on a high-spot of the washed-out campground.
The birds were goin'- it was nice to hear them after the silent winter months. They shouted MORNING, but the smooth walls of the tent were not light enough. My pillow was moist-going on damp, and the bag was wet...
I wanted to believe that the birds were wrong- and that I had time to roll over and space out for a while longer- but a cold, wet sleeping-bag was a miserable thing that I could not ignore. The zipper gave the usual struggle and the bag peeled off of me- I guess that I was already cold enough and the chilly air offered no surprise. I wondered if the grounds had flooded- things were a bit too wet for me to assume that a nightly dew was responsible. Had the river come over it's banks? Had it rained enough to overcome my shallow island?
Sure enough- it was the dew; a thick, slow-rolling fog dominated the valley. It was at first a bit disappointing- and truly weird to feel a light breeze accompany such a stagnant visual. A few finch-things livened up the river-side of my camp, but things were otherwise very still-looking.

I spent a few moments walking the bank of the Buffalo and then cut up a small, flowing stream. It didn't seem like I would see the sun today.
The low bridge leading into the NPS campground had flooded overnight- not threateningly so, but enough to send a loud, shattering wall of water over the top of the truck when I drove over. The flooded portion of the road was dry last night- it was very swift over the road, but covered only fifteen feet or so of road.
I rolled back towards the little town and walked around the few buildings. The dawn's thick clouds have certainly transformed the abandon, rotting buildings! I think it adds something to the sense of dead I found in the town- like it made the ghost-town even ghostlier. The top photo is of the post office/general store as it stood and functioned until only a half-century ago.The trail was short and easy- the old mines and relics of sorts lined every inch. An old ore cart lies off one side of the trail.. stiffened by rust and protected by the high wall that it served to create. Ore tracks- complete with mini-railroad-spikes- were abundant. These too were dying.
I explored around some of the old mine deposits- small bits of lustrous sphalerite were everywhere. Miners called this "Rosin Jack" and relied on it after the depletion of richer Smithsonite ores. Smithsonite was not too hard to find either- "turkey fat" was the name given to the bright yellow, bubbly, fatty-looking zinc crystals. One excellent vein runs down the wall of a bus-sized boulder up-hill of the largest mill.
Rush is a National Parks area though- and it is illegal to enter mines or to collect any of the gravel-sized bits of zinc or laying around. Signs that read DANGER KEEP OUT were posted in front of several mines that'd been gated or locked for the protection of visitors and bats alike. Up and down the hill here- and even across the river- there are many smaller digs and tunnels from early mining operations. The larger ones are big enough to walk in, and are blocked only where they have caved-in on themselves. Cave-ins were a scary part of Rush's history, and occurred more frequently when sophisticated blasting and drilling techniques were introduced to the valley shortly after WWI started. Such things became necessary when miners were forced to dig deeper into the mountain to fetch the ores.
I spent hours pacing the areas above and below the mines- crystals, minerals, old mining equiptment- it was all to be found. An ancient coke bottle and a HUGE platte of druzy quartz were my most memorable finds...
The fog lifted by mid-afternoon, but the sun remained hidden.. High clouds turned into stormy ones and the long ride from rush was gifted with all sorts of wonderful weather happenings...
Awsome clouds over the boston mountains and a thin, twisting rope tornado that never made it all the way... It rained for some hours and the sun set just as the back-end of the storm system glided past. .. rainbows came and went (had a triple going for a second!!!)... the winds picked up with a vengence and I rode a heavy tailwind all the way home-
It just dont get much better...

ponca for a night

An eve of stars and one of clouds- The deep Ozarks are beautiful and refreshing in nearly any condition. The flowers- delicate spring-ones- are the most unusual, attractive feature of this North Arkansas spring. It looks and feels like there should be mushrooms out, but there is not much around.
We used a different route- hit the Lost Valley area of the Buffalo River by way of hwy 74 and Boxley.

The upper Buffalo is right there- a quick drive-by and short stop to check for elk and photographs- no elk. A group of three or four swans, though!

Their rusty heads were familiar, though I could not ID them as trumpeters without a book...
Just remember that green-banded swans are always trumpeters (Tundra swans like the blue tags!)
This couple displayed tag numbers 1P7 and 2P7 in a small private wetland just south of the national forest campgrounds. I would love to know where they came from! Why are their tag #'s so close?
My mother and I did a bit of running around this afternoon- in addition to visiting the swans, the river and whatever mountain that is on the other side of Ponca, we took Lost valley trail back to the cave and falls; the dramatic Valley here is covered in the same flowers as the road was-
anemone's, beauty's, bloodroots, hepaticas, toothworts, trout lilies and -my favorite- those soft pink Duchman's Breeches.
The dirt is moist and fertile- growing things are everywhere- still there is something more impressive...the same thing that captured my attention on the long drive south and that which has altered the entire span of the Ozarks so dramatically.....Sawdust, fallen trees- mangled, shattered branches- The destruction is as bad on the ground as it is in the standing forest. The winter's disabling ice storm is still wreaking havoc on the healing mountains. Rumor has it that places a little further east are still without power- almost three months after the storm.

The campgrounds filled up quick; we claimed the last spot and tried to tune-out the noisy neighbors for the night. The stars were awesome! I made three exposures pointed north; at 5.6, a forty-minute photo was far too bright. This one was made in only twenty.
On day II mom explored more of the Buffalo. I was dropped off on the top of the hill- almost three miles north of Ponca. Here was shown to be a trio of old lead mines. They date back to the turn of the last century and I knew nothing about them except for where they were supposed to be on the map.

Last time I sought the mines I started by showing the map to the woman who runs Ponca's general store. I was not the only one who'd asked he about the map- lifted from a privately published guide from the 60's- she warned me of the mines and refused to tell me about them.

I walked for an hour- found some cool stone foundations for building and such- Spotted a possible mound about 2.4miles from town... a "tailings-pile" is the heap of waste-material from a mining operation. When I wondered back into the woods- not far from the road- I found galena, quartz in the many piles of discarded material. the heavy, metallic galena crystals were as large as my camera battery and the crystals and fossils were numerous- The mine's tailing's and the only deep shaft I found occupied me until mid-afternoon- My backpack was stuffed with pounds of lead-crystals and I strolled down the highway. Orange Puccoon coloured the dry areas along the road, and bright verbena was in some places, too.

HWY 74- crossing the buffalo near Ponca, ARK

Tried the Ozark Cafe for a meal, but little towns like Jasper close-up pretty early- Jasper's main strip (all four or five buildings) held only a motorcycle and a few pick-ups.

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Two days of Awesome!

A day of driving- I cut through the tornado wasteland south of Joplin and through many of hwy 90's best little towns. A town of three churches and a one-room school building. A graveyard with only one rule: "Please contact board member before opening graves." And, of coarse, plenty of roosters and goats!

I drove through Ponca in search of some old lead mines north of town. Several websites tell about the mines and describe an abundance of good minerals- I couldnt find it. Stopped in Ponca's one store and asked one of the women behind the counter for directions.
She joked about similar inquiries and told me that the mines were on property that was owned by a tucson man. They are not marked for NO TRESPASSING, but she did not want me visiting the mines because of the danger there.
I visited nearby Lost Valley before leaving the area- it is where I planned to spend the night after visiting the lead mines. The area was flooded with people- guess a 70-degree day was a good one to spend here! Wondered through the ancient cabin on the property- I LOVE this old home. I noticed the lack of elk on the way out- this is my first visit with no elk!
The old cabin, near ponca, is on Federal land. There is a door, a stove, a single boot and the last shreds of wallpaper still in the cabin, but thats all. It stands only with the help of a pair of new support cables, but still seems to be falling over and apart. The boot has moved since I last saw it.



Wegner's Quartz mine on Owley rd, south of Mt ida, has an incredible collection of crystals from it's own property and around the world. I took a trio of clusters from the outside-tables and paid only $1.40 for them. The shop charges by the pound! One of the clusters is smothered by the mine's famous Magnesium "blue phantoms."
The crystals on the tables below are offered by Matt Price, Owner/Operator of the Arrowhead mine. The clusters and points are pricey, but Ive never seen such quality! The pieces are flawless-even the largest clusters!
Stopped by "Gee and Dee's" on brewster mountain. Dolores (Dee) is a kind woman. We yaked for an hour or so- Gee has been working in the mine for 49 years now! She told a story about a cop inspecting Gee's crystal-cleaning chemicals as illegal drugs and stubbed her toe in between two rows or crystal-topped tabled. "See that!?" she said. "That's the lord, there, punishin' me fer my sassy mouth!" THE LORD is involved in every few sentences and she speaks with a heavy country accent. I spent a coupla bucks and took a few points, several small clusters and a double-terminated wand with a faint phantom. Dee was sure to give a reciept for the Oxalic acid she sold me to prevent any unnecessary problems with the police. I dug on their mountain for a morning- its a nice spot, but the small crystals are a lot of work!
I came from an afternoon at the Arrowhead with a five-gallon bucket of rough material and a few larger plates of clear quartz. Even claimed a few of Matt's pieces- I bought a pair of hand-sized haystacks and a few large points for far less than he would have charged if the crystals were cleaned. I will clean only a few of them- the rainbow rust can be beautiful!
I found a wonderful church on 27, north of Mt Ida. Took some photos and explored around it. Turns out it was Montgomery County's own Sweet home church! I had to do some extra research on it, but Ive discovered a very cool story behind it.

The SWEET HOME Church existed long before the huge neighboring Lake Ouachita. Land was donated by the Hovell family when the need was realized; Hovell moved to the area in 1905 and decided that the school house which hosted their Christian Services was insufficient.
The church was built by Hovell and his friends and family with available lumber. Shingles for the roof were split by S.J. McCullar and David Music. Of all who helped to build the church, only Ed Benson and Hovell's son are alive today. The Sweet home Chirch was dedicated on May 17, 1908 when Dr. G.E. Cunningham, a Little Rock minister made the building's first sermon. The text was Luke 7:5 -For He so loved our people, He built them a synagogue.- He said it could be aptly paraphrased -For they so loved their people, they built for them a church-
Most of the homesteads were sold to the Caddo River Lumber Co. and the owners moved away. Hovell jr. moved to Norman, Ark. and services were not held at the church for several years. He moved back into the area in 1929. While in Norman, he developed a friendship with Dr. John Barr and persuaded him to preach and organize a church in the Sweet home building.
I searched for Wavellite at the huge County quarry, also known as Mauldin Mountain, and I thought I had collected some. It was Matt from Arrowhead who directed me here. Turns out it was brightly-coloured Planerite in unusually well-formed balls- it usually grows in yellow and green films on the host rock. I found this growth, too. Pretty, though!

(CLICK ON ABOVE PHOTO FOR COOL CLOSE-UP!)
Huge Clusters, and smaller, perfect examples of Arkansas quartz can be found on display and for sale at any of the area's mines. Gee and Dee's were of a poor quality compared to Arrowheads' and Wegners limited supply also seemed damaged and milky. Maybe I am just spoiled?
No matter what, it seems that you will get what you pay for here. The finest quartz is priced at near $100/lb and phantoms, inclusions and manifestations are always worth a bit more. Size matters, too; a larger cluster of crystals that are of equal quality to those of a smaller cluster will sell for more $ per pound. It works out for me, though- those clusters that are less than a few inches in diameter are my favorite. Clusters this size are easy to collect and are often more complex than larger ones.
WHAT A GORGEOUS DAY Monday! The air is so warm- even the spring peepers are out. I imagine they will be turned to frogcicles by the end of the week, but their screams put spring in the air!
Arrowhead mine- Sunny this time! Had a long conversation with the mines manager, Brian. We shared stories of collecting and some of our favorite spots. I learned a lot about the process of local mining. Thanks brian!

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Mt Ida; crystals, diamonds...

I had every intention of spending some good time down with some new spots as well as my old favs'. Mt Ida was on the map- A small zinc-mining town, Rush was to be a new spot and I will always consider Diamonds for such a trip. The most exciting part was that I had no time limits- a "be back by Christmas" sort of thing. I came prepared for a week-long excursion- a tent, pocket-stove and bag, four gallons of water, some oatmeal, whatever canned food I could scrounge up, some dry socks and most importantly- a can opener!
I was set for a week and temps were forecasted above mid-twenties with rain for the time. How exciting!
Though stones at Crystal Vista require a bit more work than at the pay sites, They are often recovered in much better conditions than crystals at the privately-owned pay sites in the area. A full, perfect termination is common and clusters are large, clear and lustrous!
Diamond sorting at a Local rock shop. The small store and RV park is located just south of Crater of Diamonds SP on hwy301 in Kimberley, AR. A very friendly man, accompanied by Gizmo the dog, was happy to show me some local collections of Rough Diamonds from the mine. Yellow, brown and clear stones ranging in size from only a few points to several Carats were the highlight of the little rock shop, though he did have some very cool Quartz clusters and some tempting core samples of the famous gem-bearing kimberlite across the street. I didn't buy anything but a hunk of rough jade; Most the diamonds were expensive and a light rain altered the appearance of all of his outside-stuff so that I could not find true colours or textures on the stones. Ive seen rough diamonds priced much cheaper than those in the little shack; I dont know if his stones were priced unreasonably or if they are simply so collectible because of their unusual origins. They were cool, though! 'Not real sure if the road is still called OWLEY RD at this point, about a mile after the pavement ends. Surely it is named some ridiculous combination of the initials of the forest service and an unmemorable multi-digit number, as the majority of roads and trails are back here, 'behind' the little town of Mt Ida, Arkansas. I pulled over MY parking spot, next to the small stack of ashes and blackened remains of the fire that held me only a week ago.
... Started at the familiar trail pretty quick with some unfamiliar weight and I was going to get serious with the fortunate wall that has claimed so many a' pocket knife on the far side of the mine. A large flat-headed screw driver and a heavy hammer promise that gorgeous cluster of crystals that I discovered on my last visit.
A pair of "Leggers," as they're known down here, daddy-longlegs or Harvestmen to most of the rest of the nation. Anyways, the spider-lookin' critters were locked, seemingly frozen together at their faces by a single pair of long red pedipalps. The larger, dull-coloured one stood just slightly higher than the other on the warm sandstone block. Were they mating?
I took few photos on the hike to the mine, another steep mile from the parking area. The walk seems shorter every time I take it and the number of recognizable landmarks is growing. I reached the mine
And THOUGH Ive never found anyone at the area, my crystals had definitely been discovered, and taken, by another. Someone who had visited on a rainy weekday, prepared with some very heavy equipment and no remorse for the disgusting destruction of many feet of the crystal-bearing sandstone that was the wall. I would assume that it was the doing of one or a few of the indigens, but Ive never heard a local person reference Crystal Vista with anything but negative remarks.
I did manage to salvage a pair of hand-sized clusters from the spot. One has only a handful of very large, very clear points- the other is a crowded plate of smaller ones- over eight inches long! The latter assemblage is highlighted by a large, gemmy haystack of lustrous faces and flawless terminations which rest over a fourth of the piece. The jagged, angular pile is an extraordinary ornament that, to anyone's eyes, cannot subtract from the the crystals on which it lies.

The stunning rock grew surprisingly brilliant when I accidentally exposed it to the dimming sunlight that was able to make it through the pines and hardwoods in the shadowy, glade-like setting above the wall. A moment of confusion; I guess I'd been so totally preoccupied with the quartz and sandstone that I did not notice the Ouachita's transforming above and around me. The mountains and all of their colorful pines and rocks and balding trees were now my warm, magnificent environment. It all seemed so ordinary when I arrived only a couple of hours ago.
The rock seemed to glow- it burst into orange. All those gems that had decorated one flat side of my rock were cloudy and smudged with the same pleasant orange-color that defines the Crystal Mountain Range. The clusters were not all drab, as my paragon seemed to be; many crystals had gleaming faces and it was only after a moment of feckless disappointment that I realized my treasures were simply smeared with mud.
There was much more to be done for the wall; more debris and even a small, hopeful spot of virgin clay remained to be examined and worked. It was nearly dusk though, or at least it was heading that way. I wanted to descend in time to gather some wood- 'saw an old, dead pine across the gravel road from the parking area and my camp-to-be.

I gathered some things and an armful of my favorite finds and turned from the wall and the bright horizon behind it. The marbled, peach colored sky lost it's brilliance soon after I stepped off the other side of the mine area.

There is a trail, or a road that cuts off of the main trail to and from the mine- goes to the south up to one of the taller "false summits" of Gardner. Its been almost every visit to the mountain that Ive noticed the trail. The curious thing was probably the first landmark I became familiar with some two years ago. Ive never been up the trail, which climbs for a few hundred feet though an oak-rich section of the mountain before mysteriously disappearing behind the hill or maybe into nothing at all? Perhaps this is the trail that leads to the scenic view Ive read about. Its smothered in inches of crispy, brown leaves now, but there are no serious obstacles to stop anyone from using it. I took a more than brief moment to rest. Actually I just needed a moment to decide if the temptation was strong enough to overcome the bout of tire and laziness I seemed to be suffering from. And that it was; 'set my valuables gently on the bed of leaf-litter and committed with a single large step towards the highest point of the trail. I got up and the disappeared trail was in fact hiding on the far-side of the small peak. I was not committed to anything but the top of the trail and having reached my destination and satisfied that dire curiosity which prompted the side trip, I turned to find my camp. A "Clink, clink, clack.."

A soft, but definite sound rang from the basin to my left. I could not help but to identify the noise as that of a rock hammer. I heard it again and reinforced my assumption, though nothing stuck out from the woods when I skimmed over the vista. The main trail would travel in that direction.

I retrieved my rocks and pack and such and headed down the old mine's road. With the little bit of effort I put into locating the source of the clinking, I found nothing else.

Firewood came easy and the flames thrived. A big white pickup rolled past, announced by the pops and cracks of any gravel road.

The parking lot is a big open square- The edges are a dense forest and Crystal Vista is accessed by a trail that leads from the back of the lot, behind my truck now. It takes only moments for the black night to grow to that rural dark. The fire was bright and flashes and flickers of warm colors showed on the trunks of two close trees and reflected off of the surface of the light road on the other side of the flames from me.

Dusk was gone and the peaceful mountains were left to me. I constantly noticed the ebony sky and the unfamiliar dark wasted my confidence. Suddenly the horizon- the same one that became darkened first only three hours ago- began to glow. It was as powerful as a good city, but the light was white and not pink. I suspected the moon, but minutes passed and the glow seemed fixed. Had I not noticed it before? I spent a few minutes setting up the tent and moved on to heat up some unlabeled tin can that appeared to hold a soup. Smelled like chicken.

The small stove seemed to scream from the back of the truck- I know that it is not loud, but there is no other noise here to balance it 'cept for the purring fire which I have allowed to dim. The Moon popped over the ridge above me and lit up the parking lot like a disco ball. The white light shot through whatever branches it could and sprinkled the ground with all sorts of isolated blobs- The tops of the trees on the road-side of the lot were stuck and the light was no weaker than a good sunrise.The moon tonight is full, and is in the "perigee" extreme of it's orbit. It is genuinely larger and brighter than any other Full moon this year- just 221,560 miles away- a distance last achieved in '93, and will appear 14%larger and about 30% brighter than all others this year-

I had my chicken something; couldn't help but wonder what hungry bears or pigs were going to take advantage of my leftovers with tonight's bright moon. A bear was recently discovered on the far side of town. The moon got higher and I grew sleepy- 'found the tent and let the short puddle of embers take care of themselves.

It was several hours before even the moon was going to hit the horizon again and my chilly tent was laid down by a sudden, violent gust of wind. I woke up with the freak and only a light breeze
persisted- even this, though, was unusual considering the stillness that put me to sleep. Morning approached and the winds only grew stronger. No bears came and I watched for any signs of daylight. Winter solstice is just around the corner and the nights remain irritatingly long.

The dark again grew frustrating and I entertained myself with another fire. the ashes from last night were still hot enough to burn me.
Impatience got the best of me and I packed for the mountain. The fire died out and a bit of heavy sand and clay was enough to kill the risk of the wind carrying any burning material. I ascended with the earliest evidence of light; several times I doubted that the dimmest light was even that of the sun. Passed the old trail that I explored yesterday; Felt a sort of satisfaction when I saw it and knew what was on the other side of the small hill.

The ground in the sandy areas on the trail and mine- once you near the top of the hill- glitters with tiny points and shards left by the commercial era of the mine. Until the area got some significant light, I spent my time gathering jars and baggies of the smallest points. Perfection is easier to find in the miniatures; the few minutes I spent here produced fine examples of all sorts of clusters and 'singles'; wands, tabbies, haystacks all are clear and magnificent. I collected handfuls of them- what I choose not to keep will surely make an appreciated gift for folks not lucky enough to experience the mountain for themselves. Serious collectors dont seem to find the tiny ones worth while, but hobbyists like myself and jewelry makers back in the city especially value them.

I fiddled around with the old tailings piles that have been set around the edges of the mine and continued on to the orange-pink wall that I dug on yesterday. Sunrise ensued and a creamy, yellow band ran the length of the eastern horizon until the sky turned all-grey. A miserably cloudy morning seemed like it was here for a while.

The ground was cold, and the air-surprisingly warm. Perhaps its the wind that brought the warmth- it wasnt like this before a breeze picked up. The rocks felt cold- the mud wasnt pleasant, either. Thank 'clink-ing" noise that I noticed yesterday was back- it flew over me with a small, round silhouette. It looked similar to a nuthatch- shared that awkward, jerky flight.
Fortunately, whatever unrepentant group of rockhounds robbed my spot was not the most observant... I cleared the thin ledge of the last exploded debris from the heist and probed deeper into the buried mass of greasy red clay- another pocket!

The filled hole was small- slimy clay dug out with only a few scoops of my hand. I took the loose crystals that were in each handful of material until I'd emptied the sharp cavity. Unlike the two larger crystal-caves that sat on top of it a week ago, this one had no floor. Its walls widened and then tapered so that it sat vertical and oblong. The patches of smaller points on every side of it seemed not worth tearing it apart. Not for the effort, though, but for the sake of the growing crevasse itself. I filled the thing with the finest dark clay that I removed from it, minus the treasures- maybe this one will keep growing? I covered up some other damaged areas below the fall and said my goodbyes- the one covey-hole has given my crystals for two years. Ive spent days on it and shed many red pints for it's wealth. How lucky am I to have discovered such a thing!?

Another few hours blew by with the intense wind. It was cool, almost cold now and strong enough to sway the small pry-bar on my waist- make my eyes water.

My pack to grew to a satisfying weight and I had to give the grown, 4-acre clearing a last look before I bid the mountain goodbye. Ive taken a lot from it- almost twenty pounds just this trip.

The pines grow like cedars here- I'm sure that the twenty-footers around are all less than a decade old. Camp packed up in minutes. Im sure that it is where I will stay tonight, but I dont feel too comfortable leaving the things that I rely on. I left the Crystal Vista area. Windswept, a little cold and totally satisfied with what I'd recovered from the raid. Maybe I would go find a meal in town- I would love to visit a working mine to dig.

I caught up to the pavement and waved to the small mule-gator vehicle that can always be found on this stretch of the road with it's two red-capped passengers. The driver waved back; he took a good look at me, too. He removed the scarf from his eyes and gave a long glance- Im sure he recognises the truck by now.

Before I knew it I was passing the Arrowhead mine sign. This mine, which is said to produce some of the most lustrous specimens of the area, is closed every time Ive noticed it. Not this time. I had to give it a shot- the mine has been the basis for too much curiosity and many a daydream!

A dogleg to the left and I was rolling down a long, rough driveway. I pulled up on the road above the construction area and called "Matt" from a number posted next to an old oak. A woman answered and instructed me to pull into the mine area and find matt's red pickup.

'Down one last stretch of rough road; a skinny man approached the truck. Brian is the manager for the mine. Gave me some simple instructions and took my signature and a twenty. Brian seemed knowledgeable, but not friendly- maybe it was just a false first impression. A firm hand pointed me to a GIANT pile of tailing material- leftovers from the heaviest mining operations. He warned me to stay away from 'the pit' and told me to dig; "Not enough people listen to me and dig- theres far too much surface collecting goin' on and I' seen some good stuff collected when people start t' dig!" I pledged to break the surface and Brian returned to his work in the giant hole to the side of the pile.
Another two miners inside the hole- on the opposite side from a large track hoe. "HIGHWALL" read a sign staked at the edge of the pit- orange flagging warned of the sudden drop on the edge of THE PIT.
An old, grey car and a big white pickup were in the lot, but I saw nobody on the small red hill that I was supposed to dig in.. I knew what to do and carried a large tin, a shovel and a screwdriver to a boulder on the truck-face of the mound, about two-thirds up. An hour or two went by- I collected some great stuff from a deepening hole next to the boulder. My hands will be red for a while, my tools are also sealed with the clay. I peeled the mound apart- a sticky blob of clay at a time. Some of the clay was yellowish and another handful could be grey- the colours were a surprised.
"OOh's" and "Aww's" and a "Holy Crap!" from the other side of the hill and a fast plastic bucket launched from the broken view of the opposite face of the hill. It careened towards the parked cars-propelled by the wind and perhaps fleeing the dumpy woman who stumbled down the hill in hot pursuit.
I took another shovel-full of heavy material from the hole. An exciting hand-sized crystal smeared from the clay. It was beautiful; I examined the long thing for several moments before wrapping it in a handkerchief and adding it to the tin- the metal barrel was almost half full! Hours passed and I took a break- 'Sat on the boulder beside me and needed to check up on the giant- It is not a very clear point- a thick, almost opaque layer of rust coats most of the surface. The quality, though, was not what made this one so valuable. I set it on top of the others in the bucket- most of my stuff was too crusty and muddy to appear worthwhile, but there were a few eye-catching faces where I had rubbed a surface clean of any clouding mud.

The surface of the mound did not glitter, but not because the crystals were not there; they simply did not show like I would expect them to at the National forest site.

Here, surface collecting would be hard; the muddy stones could not easily be told from any other piece of the monotone mountain. It took only seconds, though, to adjust to these strange-looking points and collecting from the exposed gravels became as easy as the rain-washed crystals of Crystal Vista. I filled the bucket to three quarters before Brian approached me at the tin. "We're gonna' be doin some blastin here in while. 'Going to have to ask ya' to move your vehicles to the top a'the hill there." he pointed to the road that led from the mine and glanced over to a digging man on the side of the hill. Brian went on to explain the run-and-hide procedure that was to be adopted when "Fire in the hole" sounded.

Myself and the other visitors went about our business through the afternoon- the clouds disappeared and crystals were abound!
I spoke to a visiting man from Murfreesboro, a couple from New Jersey and a Conway trio who celebrated a thirtieth birthday. Everyone enjoyed themselves, though the New Jersey folks appeared disappointed and frustrated with their finds, or lack of.
One of the drunken Arkansans stumbled onto my stash and sounded a loud "wow!" Her accomplices soon showed and echoed the woman's expression. One woman offered a short, wandering story to whomever listened "... it's just like fishin" she said- Another warned LOOK, but dont touch.
Other comments surfaced between them and some for the whole group of us. Most refered to me as the quiet one and an exaggerated description of my largest find was made by the woman's hands spread far apart. She would be carrying a bucket of rocks, crushed cans and empty bottles from the mine.

Found an online journal of a 2003 visit to Crystal Vista- In the photos, the area looks bare compared to what it is now! I dont know if it has anything to do with the burnt bark on the base of some of the pies on the mountain?? A quote, too, advertised by one of the local quartz mines...
http://home.att.net/~mshofstall/springbreak2003.html


"Crystals grew inside rock like arithmetic flowers. They lengthened and spread, added plane to plane in an awed and perfect obedience to an absolute geometry that even stones -- maybe only the stones -- understood." Annie Dillard


The remaining portion of my excursion was well-spent with a day-trip to the kimberlite near Murfreesboro on a diamond hunt, a quick stop at Larry's crystal shop for instruction and a nerve-racking race with a nasty line of Missouri's best storms !
Kimberley's rainy Kimberlite, a huge vertical pipe of volcanic upchuck, was formed with it's diamonds about 100M years ago. The greenish-grey material that is currently mined within the state park is estimated to be about one-third the age of the surrounding Ouchitas. Diamonds were first discovered by the man who farmed the land in 1906 and were made available to tourists after a few failed commercial attempts before the 1950's. On a wintry day like my visit, the mine is occupied by a portion of the most enthusiastic local crowd. Part-time miners operate their arsenals of equipment in an almost business-like manner. Most people seem to keep to themselves; they will sell their finds through some of the local shops by consignment.

I fooled around in the mine only long enough to stuff my jacket with colourful jaspers- lost my hope for finding a gem on my last visit to the park. I washed the mud from below my waiste and shot back to mount ida in time to catch a break from the weather there.
The grim forecast for the area was not as bad as the one given for Kansas City. Days of rain for the Ouchitas and an ice storm for back home. The storm would hit sometime tonight.
Larry brought out a few flats of his favorite crystals to show me. HE scrambled abound the little shop like an overly-excited child to bring me all sorts of wonderful things. I announced early that I was visiting to ask about a few local spots, but I dont think that he was trying to sell me anything, either.
He placed a few crystallized Orpiment specimens delicately on the counter between us and explained the process which I should take to collect rare Wavellite on county property as legally as possible. "The Mayor.." he said. Thats who I should visit to get permission. Larry's gorgeous was beautiful; he offered to let me copy down the supplier's information and told me to contact here to go collect it in the tiny private mine in Nowhere, Nevada. He wrapped the crystals up quickly and ran to the back to retrieve another flat(s) that he Had to show me.
Both were of local quartz points, but much more. One was stacked high with large, loose points. The crystals in this shallow box were a colour that I can describe to you only as 'piss-yellow.' The colour was strong, and somehow beautiful. Larry went on to explain that the flat was one of only two like it offered to dealers in the region- he was so proud to have it! Another flat was filled with smaller, brilliant points similar to the ones I'd come to collect. "jewelry points"
All of the points in this container were also special; A vivid green blob- defined like a tall storm cloud and coloured like a dull lime- came from the base of each. "green phantom's.. goin' out to collect some with the man next week!"
Id never hear of such a thing, but I'd not heard of the surprisingly appealing piss-quartz either. A bought a trio of the green guys- larry gave me a good price after all that braggin' he did about how much he'd sold them for in the past. A long, clear rod, "wand," that is no longer than an inch, but it's got a beautiful phantom running right through the center and a shorter, wider one with a similar growth. I took a small cluster, too, of many tiny green wands. Larry through a pink tourmaline crystal that I found on the floor of the shop and went on to draw a map to his favorite fee-collecting spot. One of the Coleman brother's mines up just a little way's north.
I thanked larry and got to the toughest part of my trip. I wanted to stay. My tent was soggy from last night's scattered storms, but I could do with the rain. Ice, though, scares me.
. I decided to split- leave the little mining town and make it home before I should have to deal with any nasty conditions. Larry waved me off.
It clouded up again- soon after I passed Dardanelle and it's gigantic nuclear tower. By Bentonville it wanted to spit and in Jane, near the border, I found myself breathing the thick, beautiful smell of a severe T-storm. Gusts here would test me and I got out of the strongest bouts of wind before they got too bad.
THE AIR WAS COLD- almost bitter on the back-side of Jane's storm. It simply changed from rain to slow and I feared that I might be driving into the catastrophe that I intended to avoid. the snow turned into ice and windsheild-wipers couldnt win. It all stopped though, only an hour after it began it stopped.
A woman at whatever gas station I stopped at warned of a huge ice storm that would be in by morning. It was dark- 'had been since Jane, but it was still only 6 or somethin'.
The weather was back before too long- It wasnt playin' this time. Sleet came every few minutes harder that Ive ever seen it in my life. It served only to blast the frozen rain from my windshield and turn the road slick. Everything was white- almost instantly! The roads went empty and the semi's lined up at the top of each ramp. Im sure they were laughing at me.
The ice only got worse- I had to pull over to convince myself that that the roads were in better shape than they appeared- I put on the breaks and and got a shot of adrenaline.
Archie was like a lightshow. Greens and blues and even some whites- Every second or so meant another blown transformer. I began to regret heading home and with only shattered confidence now, I considered pulling over for the night.
The snow-plows were like a miracle! I followed them for the first glance of exposed pavement in many miles. A few slips and slides later, and past a few dozen car wrecks and I was home. A neon thermometer across the highway read 8 degrees and it the news made the storm even more terrifying than I'd found it to be!

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Arkansas, anyone??

The entrance of the 4-acre abandon mine area on Gardner Mountain- There is a pair of huge tailings-piles to either side of the mine entrance and the pit is strait ahead. The mound of red and white (grey and gray) here is to the left of the trail.I don't know anything about the mine, though many similar quartz operations were active in the 1980's; The National Forest adopted the area as a Crystal collecting one because of the amount of points loose on the ground.

Yes, Kansas City is frozen, but Crystal Vista is still crawling with such critters as spiders and grasshoppers! The small National Forest spot south of Mt Ida, AR was a welcoming 50+ degrees and sunny Saturday when I skipped out on the Cedar tree event. A coral berry-lookin bush stood taller than me on the edge of the dirt parking area. The clusters of berries on this bush were much larger and more colourful than those on our buckbrush; Any Idea? ?

Lots of daddy longlegs, Harvestman spiders, crawled over the crunchy trail and I was easily distracted by an orange ball of micro-spiders on a sunflower skeleton. There was less than two hours of daylight left and I didn't spend too much time photographing them.

Hiking up the steep Crystal Vista trail takes about half an hour. There are no buildings or structures of any kind and no water is available. The Crystal collection area is one of only two free areas available to the public and is the only one where you are allowed to dig. Other mines in the area, such as the Arrowhead and Wegner's crystal mine are private and collection requires a fee.
Only a very light wind brushes through the pine trees- The trees are what keep the Ouachita Mountains Green in December. The rest of the trees are Oaks and they are all bald.
Ferns keep some of the understory green. There is a good patch of them on the backside of the pile of mining debris to the right of the entrance and several more lower on the mountain. I spent enough time on my knees this evening to gather up a water bottle full of small points; The smaller piles on either side of the old road are an excellent spot to gather these. Many sparkling, brilliant points can be found on the trail just below the mine, but these rarely exceed one inch. Larger points are hard to find loose anywhere on Crystal Vista, but a worthy cluster of points is certainly not impossible!
'Haystack' and "Cactus" formations are beautiful and common here. Most of the crystals are very clear and nothing else can be found except for a Milky variety (No amethysts or Smokey Quartz)
I got back in time to gather a few armfuls of wood for a fire. I didn't notice the freezing temperatures until several hours after dark, when the warmth failed to travel as far from the flames as i needed it to. Temperatures in the mid-twenties were forecasted with northerly winds that never showed up.
My sleeping bag, a thick blanket and an extra pair of socks were enough to fend off any numb toes, but I did not expect what was the worst part of the night. December's temperatures and dangerous precipitation are to blame for the lack of campers in our part of the country. I have never tried it for such reasons, but these iffy factors are not what will discourage me from camping in December again.
I slept well for the usual seven or eight hours and woke refreshed, alert and excited for a full day of Crystals. The cold snapped at any exposed skin when I removed myself from the cozy bags and my frozen boots were a bit of a shock. I walked about for a few moments in the light and shadows cast by a bright moon, but I noticed no sign of dawn.
It is always dark when I wake in a tent, but I can be confident that sunrise is on its way! Not this time. An hour later and the sky only grew darker with the decent of the white moon. I found myself shoeless and back under the pair of chilled blankets which delivered more of a shock than when I originally left them for the icy night. I relaxed and enjoyed the wonderful sounds of the coyotes and owls and screeching tires that may accompany any Saturday night here... tossed and turned and tried simple math to calculate how much longer this frustratingly long night would last and the warmth seemed never to return to the tent. I noticed that though the fire was out, a thin cloud of smoke still hovered over the ashes and began to wonder how long it was that I had even been sleeping? Is it possible that the night is still young? I could not smell the morning; It was not in the air.
In fact, Saturday's disturbed night lasted more than fourteen hours. The moon set, according to a table Ive found online, around 1:18am and I had many, many hours before sunrise.
I got back to sleep, eventually, and any loss of sanity I experienced would surely be healed with a day on the mountain.A frost much thicker than that which I encountered in the dark coated everything as the MUCH anticipated sunrise began. It was a great relief and this sunrise was much more beautiful than it could have been after any summer night. The fragile ice frosted the edge of every fallen leaf and branch like gold in sunlight that spotted the earth through the trees. I did not hesitate to throw on my boots for a needed ascent. My legs had certainly waited long enough for the swift march- it felt as if I was shaking a crust that had accumulated with the irritating longevity of stillness and the night.
It was not long at all before the ground's frost disappeared and some very stiff Opiliones hugged any dark rock they could reach. I suspect that the lack of frost here, only a quarter-mile from the trail head, has more to do with a gain in elevation than it does with a dim sunrise.
I crawled around the mine area for only a few minutes before I spotted an old hole of mine. the small dig, high on a ledge opposite of the entrance, would be almost invisible if you didn't expect it. A thin slide of fine red clay marks the spot below the sandstone wall. The hole had been very productive on previous visits, but I am sure that it's treasures are taken.
(above) The "crack" in the sandstone that turned into a trio of fine pockets. The two holes seen here spilled out gallons of the 'reddest, greasiest' crystal-filled clay in the area. Each forfeited about fifty loose points and still display walls of intact crystals. Some of the nicer points, like the crystal BELOW, exceeded two inches in length and exhibit many marvelous highlights like rainbows, ghosts, intriguing faces and, off course, mind-blowing clarity!
... And taken they were; I shifted through the sandy material that was my spot and found nothing. A little further and a hopeful crack in the orange-tan sandstone became uncovered. I spent upwards of four hours slicing and dicing my hands in that crack with my favorite tool.
Mt Ida-area quartz operations have claimed many a pocket knife, I am sure. It wouldn't be too hard to go back and find bits and pieces of my own 'tools' that have disappeared into cracks and rocks similar to my new find. My pocket knife, however, stayed intact through three small pockets and a few feet of rock today. I collected only a few pounds of crystals from the trio of miniature caverns and left in the midst of the excavation of the largest cluster I have ever found here. I left in fear of splitting my hands worse than they already were on the razor-like shards that stick firmly from the walls of each hole and of the fear of injuring a beautiful plate of rock quartz.
that large, gorgeous cluster of crystals (above) sits exposed now for any creature to admire. I hope to return soon to reclaim my discovery: hopefully with something a bit more helpful than a knife.
As the crystals sit, now, they really do display a PERFECT example of a quartz pocket. Though I would love to be the one to have the treasure, it is a rare opportunity that no interested person should miss to see such a fine representation of the area's crystals. Anyone interested in finding the exposed pocket is welcome to contact me for directions to the sight. I will be back to find it again!
ATLANTIS FOUND is the name of one of Mt ida's larger crystal shops. Unlike the majority of rock shops that dot any highway leading to or from the town, Atlantis Found is not owned or affiliated with any mine. The quartz here is local and beautiful and the shops owner sells at nice prices, but I dont need to buy my crystals! I asked about collecting Wavellite on Mauldin Mountain and about some of the commercial mines that I spotted on Owley road. Mauldin mountain is now closed to collecting!? The old county quarry is famous for it's crystals, but the man here tells me that it has been closed due to overuse. He went on a short rant about how the NFS has been tightening regulations on Quartz collecting in the area, too. The NFS land, which is much of what surrounds the Quartz Belt, is now limited to only surface collecting and plans are in place to reduce the amout of material that can be removed. I'll have to visit the office next visit to get a more complete list of rules.
Had a long, pleasant drive home on scenic hwy 7 and US65.
The trips spoils! THIRTY-SIX hours, 800miles and a few dozen gems for my collection!