Saturday, April 25, 2009
Arkansas Wavellite!
Monday, March 30, 2009
Ghost Town, Ark
I explored around some of the old mine deposits- small bits of lustrous sphalerite were everywhere. Miners called this "Rosin Jack" and relied on it after the depletion of richer Smithsonite ores. Smithsonite was not too hard to find either- "turkey fat" was the name given to the bright yellow, bubbly, fatty-looking zinc crystals. One excellent vein runs down the wall of a bus-sized boulder up-hill of the largest mill.
ponca for a night
We used a different route- hit the Lost Valley area of the Buffalo River by way of hwy 74 and Boxley.
The campgrounds filled up quick; we claimed the last spot and tried to tune-out the noisy neighbors for the night. The stars were awesome! I made three exposures pointed north; at 5.6, a forty-minute photo was far too bright. This one was made in only twenty.
Last time I sought the mines I started by showing the map to the woman who runs Ponca's general store. I was not the only one who'd asked he about the map- lifted from a privately published guide from the 60's- she warned me of the mines and refused to tell me about them.
I walked for an hour- found some cool stone foundations for building and such- Spotted a possible mound about 2.4miles from town... a "tailings-pile" is the heap of waste-material from a mining operation. When I wondered back into the woods- not far from the road- I found galena, quartz in the many piles of discarded material. the heavy, metallic galena crystals were as large as my camera battery and the crystals and fossils were numerous- The mine's tailing's and the only deep shaft I found occupied me until mid-afternoon- My backpack was stuffed with pounds of lead-crystals and I strolled down the highway. Orange Puccoon coloured the dry areas along the road, and bright verbena was in some places, too.
HWY 74- crossing the buffalo near Ponca, ARK
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Two days of Awesome!
I drove through Ponca in search of some old lead mines north of town. Several websites tell about the mines and describe an abundance of good minerals- I couldnt find it. Stopped in Ponca's one store and asked one of the women behind the counter for directions.
She joked about similar inquiries and told me that the mines were on property that was owned by a tucson man. They are not marked for NO TRESPASSING, but she did not want me visiting the mines because of the danger there.
I visited nearby Lost Valley before leaving the area- it is where I planned to spend the night after visiting the lead mines. The area was flooded with people- guess a 70-degree day was a good one to spend here! Wondered through the ancient cabin on the property- I LOVE this old home. I noticed the lack of elk on the way out- this is my first visit with no elk!
The old cabin, near ponca, is on Federal land. There is a door, a stove, a single boot and the last shreds of wallpaper still in the cabin, but thats all. It stands only with the help of a pair of new support cables, but still seems to be falling over and apart. The boot has moved since I last saw it.
The SWEET HOME Church existed long before the huge neighboring Lake Ouachita. Land was donated by the Hovell family when the need was realized; Hovell moved to the area in 1905 and decided that the school house which hosted their Christian Services was insufficient.
WHAT A GORGEOUS DAY Monday! The air is so warm- even the spring peepers are out. I imagine they will be turned to frogcicles by the end of the week, but their screams put spring in the air!
Arrowhead mine- Sunny this time! Had a long conversation with the mines manager, Brian. We shared stories of collecting and some of our favorite spots. I learned a lot about the process of local mining. Thanks brian!
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Mt Ida; crystals, diamonds...
I was set for a week and temps were forecasted above mid-twenties with rain for the time. How exciting!
I took few photos on the hike to the mine, another steep mile from the parking area. The walk seems shorter every time I take it and the number of recognizable landmarks is growing. I reached the mine
And THOUGH Ive never found anyone at the area, my crystals had definitely been discovered, and taken, by another. Someone who had visited on a rainy weekday, prepared with some very heavy equipment and no remorse for the disgusting destruction of many feet of the crystal-bearing sandstone that was the wall. I would assume that it was the doing of one or a few of the indigens, but Ive never heard a local person reference Crystal Vista with anything but negative remarks.
I did manage to salvage a pair of hand-sized clusters from the spot. One has only a handful of very large, very clear points- the other is a crowded plate of smaller ones- over eight inches long! The latter assemblage is highlighted by a large, gemmy haystack of lustrous faces and flawless terminations which rest over a fourth of the piece. The jagged, angular pile is an extraordinary ornament that, to anyone's eyes, cannot subtract from the the crystals on which it lies.
The stunning rock grew surprisingly brilliant when I accidentally exposed it to the dimming sunlight that was able to make it through the pines and hardwoods in the shadowy, glade-like setting above the wall. A moment of confusion; I guess I'd been so totally preoccupied with the quartz and sandstone that I did not notice the Ouachita's transforming above and around me. The mountains and all of their colorful pines and rocks and balding trees were now my warm, magnificent environment. It all seemed so ordinary when I arrived only a couple of hours ago.
The rock seemed to glow- it burst into orange. All those gems that had decorated one flat side of my rock were cloudy and smudged with the same pleasant orange-color that defines the Crystal Mountain Range. The clusters were not all drab, as my paragon seemed to be; many crystals had gleaming faces and it was only after a moment of feckless disappointment that I realized my treasures were simply smeared with mud.
There was much more to be done for the wall; more debris and even a small, hopeful spot of virgin clay remained to be examined and worked. It was nearly dusk though, or at least it was heading that way. I wanted to descend in time to gather some wood- 'saw an old, dead pine across the gravel road from the parking area and my camp-to-be.
I gathered some things and an armful of my favorite finds and turned from the wall and the bright horizon behind it. The marbled, peach colored sky lost it's brilliance soon after I stepped off the other side of the mine area.
There is a trail, or a road that cuts off of the main trail to and from the mine- goes to the south up to one of the taller "false summits" of Gardner. Its been almost every visit to the mountain that Ive noticed the trail. The curious thing was probably the first landmark I became familiar with some two years ago. Ive never been up the trail, which climbs for a few hundred feet though an oak-rich section of the mountain before mysteriously disappearing behind the hill or maybe into nothing at all? Perhaps this is the trail that leads to the scenic view Ive read about. Its smothered in inches of crispy, brown leaves now, but there are no serious obstacles to stop anyone from using it. I took a more than brief moment to rest. Actually I just needed a moment to decide if the temptation was strong enough to overcome the bout of tire and laziness I seemed to be suffering from. And that it was; 'set my valuables gently on the bed of leaf-litter and committed with a single large step towards the highest point of the trail. I got up and the disappeared trail was in fact hiding on the far-side of the small peak. I was not committed to anything but the top of the trail and having reached my destination and satisfied that dire curiosity which prompted the side trip, I turned to find my camp. A "Clink, clink, clack.."
A soft, but definite sound rang from the basin to my left. I could not help but to identify the noise as that of a rock hammer. I heard it again and reinforced my assumption, though nothing stuck out from the woods when I skimmed over the vista. The main trail would travel in that direction.
I retrieved my rocks and pack and such and headed down the old mine's road. With the little bit of effort I put into locating the source of the clinking, I found nothing else.
The parking lot is a big open square- The edges are a dense forest and Crystal Vista is accessed by a trail that leads from the back of the lot, behind my truck now. It takes only moments for the black night to grow to that rural dark. The fire was bright and flashes and flickers of warm colors showed on the trunks of two close trees and reflected off of the surface of the light road on the other side of the flames from me.
Dusk was gone and the peaceful mountains were left to me. I constantly noticed the ebony sky and the unfamiliar dark wasted my confidence. Suddenly the horizon- the same one that became darkened first only three hours ago- began to glow. It was as powerful as a good city, but the light was white and not pink. I suspected the moon, but minutes passed and the glow seemed fixed. Had I not noticed it before? I spent a few minutes setting up the tent and moved on to heat up some unlabeled tin can that appeared to hold a soup. Smelled like chicken.
The small stove seemed to scream from the back of the truck- I know that it is not loud, but there is no other noise here to balance it 'cept for the purring fire which I have allowed to dim. The Moon popped over the ridge above me and lit up the parking lot like a disco ball. The white light shot through whatever branches it could and sprinkled the ground with all sorts of isolated blobs- The tops of the trees on the road-side of the lot were stuck and the light was no weaker than a good sunrise.The moon tonight is full, and is in the "perigee" extreme of it's orbit. It is genuinely larger and brighter than any other Full moon this year- just 221,560 miles away- a distance last achieved in '93, and will appear 14%larger and about 30% brighter than all others this year-
I had my chicken something; couldn't help but wonder what hungry bears or pigs were going to take advantage of my leftovers with tonight's bright moon. A bear was recently discovered on the far side of town. The moon got higher and I grew sleepy- 'found the tent and let the short puddle of embers take care of themselves.
It was several hours before even the moon was going to hit the horizon again and my chilly tent was laid down by a sudden, violent gust of wind. I woke up with the freak and only a light breeze
persisted- even this, though, was unusual considering the stillness that put me to sleep. Morning approached and the winds only grew stronger. No bears came and I watched for any signs of daylight. Winter solstice is just around the corner and the nights remain irritatingly long.
The dark again grew frustrating and I entertained myself with another fire. the ashes from last night were still hot enough to burn me.
Impatience got the best of me and I packed for the mountain. The fire died out and a bit of heavy sand and clay was enough to kill the risk of the wind carrying any burning material. I ascended with the earliest evidence of light; several times I doubted that the dimmest light was even that of the sun. Passed the old trail that I explored yesterday; Felt a sort of satisfaction when I saw it and knew what was on the other side of the small hill.
The ground in the sandy areas on the trail and mine- once you near the top of the hill- glitters with tiny points and shards left by the commercial era of the mine. Until the area got some significant light, I spent my time gathering jars and baggies of the smallest points. Perfection is easier to find in the miniatures; the few minutes I spent here produced fine examples of all sorts of clusters and 'singles'; wands, tabbies, haystacks all are clear and magnificent. I collected handfuls of them- what I choose not to keep will surely make an appreciated gift for folks not lucky enough to experience the mountain for themselves. Serious collectors dont seem to find the tiny ones worth while, but hobbyists like myself and jewelry makers back in the city especially value them.
I fiddled around with the old tailings piles that have been set around the edges of the mine and continued on to the orange-pink wall that I dug on yesterday. Sunrise ensued and a creamy, yellow band ran the length of the eastern horizon until the sky turned all-grey. A miserably cloudy morning seemed like it was here for a while.
The ground was cold, and the air-surprisingly warm. Perhaps its the wind that brought the warmth- it wasnt like this before a breeze picked up. The rocks felt cold- the mud wasnt pleasant, either. Thank 'clink-ing" noise that I noticed yesterday was back- it flew over me with a small, round silhouette. It looked similar to a nuthatch- shared that awkward, jerky flight.
Fortunately, whatever unrepentant group of rockhounds robbed my spot was not the most observant... I cleared the thin ledge of the last exploded debris from the heist and probed deeper into the buried mass of greasy red clay- another pocket!
The filled hole was small- slimy clay dug out with only a few scoops of my hand. I took the loose crystals that were in each handful of material until I'd emptied the sharp cavity. Unlike the two larger crystal-caves that sat on top of it a week ago, this one had no floor. Its walls widened and then tapered so that it sat vertical and oblong. The patches of smaller points on every side of it seemed not worth tearing it apart. Not for the effort, though, but for the sake of the growing crevasse itself. I filled the thing with the finest dark clay that I removed from it, minus the treasures- maybe this one will keep growing? I covered up some other damaged areas below the fall and said my goodbyes- the one covey-hole has given my crystals for two years. Ive spent days on it and shed many red pints for it's wealth. How lucky am I to have discovered such a thing!?
Another few hours blew by with the intense wind. It was cool, almost cold now and strong enough to sway the small pry-bar on my waist- make my eyes water.
My pack to grew to a satisfying weight and I had to give the grown, 4-acre clearing a last look before I bid the mountain goodbye. Ive taken a lot from it- almost twenty pounds just this trip.
I caught up to the pavement and waved to the small mule-gator vehicle that can always be found on this stretch of the road with it's two red-capped passengers. The driver waved back; he took a good look at me, too. He removed the scarf from his eyes and gave a long glance- Im sure he recognises the truck by now.
A dogleg to the left and I was rolling down a long, rough driveway. I pulled up on the road above the construction area and called "Matt" from a number posted next to an old oak. A woman answered and instructed me to pull into the mine area and find matt's red pickup.
http://home.att.net/~mshofstall/springbreak2003.html
The remaining portion of my excursion was well-spent with a day-trip to the kimberlite near Murfreesboro on a diamond hunt, a quick stop at Larry's crystal shop for instruction and a nerve-racking race with a nasty line of Missouri's best storms !
Kimberley's rainy Kimberlite, a huge vertical pipe of volcanic upchuck, was formed with it's diamonds about 100M years ago. The greenish-grey material that is currently mined within the state park is estimated to be about one-third the age of the surrounding Ouchitas. Diamonds were first discovered by the man who farmed the land in 1906 and were made available to tourists after a few failed commercial attempts before the 1950's. On a wintry day like my visit, the mine is occupied by a portion of the most enthusiastic local crowd. Part-time miners operate their arsenals of equipment in an almost business-like manner. Most people seem to keep to themselves; they will sell their finds through some of the local shops by consignment.